![]() I’m not sure if it matters but one of the black power wires that goes to the light circuit in the base is labeled Neutral on the circuit board so I made sure I connected that wire to the Neutral on the power supply. The power supply ends up hanging off each side by a little bit because the power supply is longer than the base. The screws come up through the bottom of the base and screw into threaded holes in the power supply. I had to drill three clearance for M3 screws. Quote from: TGill on February 03, 2020, 08:22:36 pm I decided to try the Mean Well RD125. I wouldn’t have attempted this without your write up. ![]() No more game locking up and no more lines across the monitor. I tried to measure the voltages without a load and the voltage just cycles. The other thing about the Mean Well is that they have the voltages labeled as V1 and V2 and they don’t tell you which is the 5 or 12v. I would have not been able to access the terminals on the power supply after I reinstalled the whole assembly unless I turned it around. ![]() My power supply is also mounted 180 degrees from how Ken mounted it. The manual says the ground is supposed to be floating so I later removed the ground. My base is plastic so I also connected a ground to the ground terminal on the power supply. The +21 volts was for the audio amplifier which will work fine on the +12 volt connection.Ģ is +21 volts for amplifier (green wire) ĥ is +12 volts to coin door lamps (wire color varies from machine to machine, but is usually blue)ħ is +12 volts to remove/throw darts lights and pushbutton lights (wire color varies, but is usually blue) Connect all the +12 volt (pins 5, 7, and 8 ) AND the +21 volt (pin 2) wires to the +12 volt terminal on the new power supply. Connect all the GROUND wires of the game wiring harness (pins 1, 3, 9, and 10) to the Common terminals on the new supply. Connect all the +5 volt wires of the game wiring harness (pins 4 and 6) to the +5 volt terminal on the new supply. Now to connect the DC outputs of the new supply to the game harness Connector J1 which plugged into the original power supply. Mount the new supply with four #6 sheet metal screws about 1/4" to 3/8" long.Ħ. When drilling the holes be sure not to drill through the lamp dimmer board (or it's components) and make sure no metal filings/shavings fall on the board. Place the new switching power supply on top of the chassis and mark locations of it's mounting brackets and drill four 3/32" holes. These will be the AC power wires to the new switching regulator power supply.ĥ. The wires should be about a foot long for each one. Butt splice an 18 gauge stranded wire to each of the black wires you just cut on that board. Now cut off the black wires an inch or two away from the board.Ĥ. Follow it's black wires underneath the chassis to the lamp dimmer circuit board. Remove the big blue electrolytic capacitor and it's mounting bracket.ģ. Remove the old circuit board that's screwed to the big blue capacitor.Ģ. ![]() The reason for this is that the monitor, amplifier, and coin door lamps/gameboard lamps/pushbutton lamps all run on the 12 volts.ġ. You will need a screw terminal switching regulator power supply capable of outputing at least 3 amps (preferably 4 amps) on the +12 volt line. Some old instructions of mine regarding upgrading the original Arachnid power supply to a switcher:Ĭonverting a 6000 (Super Six), 6100 (Super Six Plus), 6200 & 6300 (Super Six Plus 2) power supply from that crappy linear design to a modern switching regulator. ![]()
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